11 octobre : matinée embrumée

Parcouru à vélo : Cerro Azul – Ica | 169Km ~9h30

La brume matinale n’était pas prête de se dissiper. Le compteur accroché au guidon affichait seulement un petit 6h30, je venais de parcourir quelques kilomètres entourés par l’océan à peine visible sur ma droite et de l’autre côté, la cordillère des Andes se dressant au loin. Depuis mon départ je ne cessais d’observer ces montagnes avec une appréhension n’ayant d’égale que ma fascination.

J’arrivais alors au bas d’une dune, tandis que ma vitesse diminuait, une forme de couleur sombre se dessinait sur le bas côté à plusieurs dizaines de mètres en avant de moi. A chaque seconde la scène se détaillait davantage. Je pouvais maintenant distinguer une silhouette étendue dans le sable et plus je m’en approchais, moins j’en croyais mes yeux. Immobile, bandeau sur le visage, je reconnaissais soudainement les yeux d’une femme.

Je m’arrêtai à sa hauteur tout en la fixant et je prononçai avec la plus grande innocence : « que pasa ? ».

Comme s’il avait fallut attendre ces mots pour enclencher une réaction, la femme se mit directement à marmonner et même parvenir à se lever. Quelque peu confus par la situation j’observais la scène d’une manière complètement détachée, comme si celle-ci se déroulait au cinéma. Soudain ding’, telle la cloche de l’école venant interrompre votre escapade, je rembarquai sur le vélo d’un geste purement instinctif et sans même retourner la tête, je repris mon chemin.

Ai-je été lâche ?

Bords de route

Une heure plus tard, naviguant au beau milieu de nul part, je calculais mon arrivée dans la prochaine ville de Pisco pour midi. En attendant, je longeais la sombre autoroute toujours entourée par cette épaisse brume. Tout me paraissait bien silencieux comparé à la veille. A 7h30, les véhicules se faisaient encore peu remarqué et je ne pouvais que m’en réjouir.

panamericana
panamericana – martynas

Je pédalais à vive allure sur un plat à l’abri du vent. En levant la tête, j’apercevais à quelques centaines de mètres un homme en train de marcher le long de la route. De modestes maisons aux murs grisâtres s’étendaient le long de la plage, suivies de grandes cabanes à poules.
En approchant, je réalisais qu’il s’agissait d’un homme blanc. Vêtu de couleurs sombres, sa démarche et l’atmosphère sinistre du moment ne m’inspiraient guère confiance. L’homme m’interpela. Son visage était recouvert d’une fine couche d’eau dû à l’humidité, je l’observais brièvement pour me rendre compte qu’il ne portait qu’une paire de tongs. Il ne possédait aucun sac et je n’avais aperçu aucun véhicule auparavant.

L’homme venu d’ailleurs m’expliqua sur un ton très décontracté qu’il voyageait aussi à bicyclette. On l’avait dépouillé dans la nuit, sur le bord de la plage et à son réveille aucune trace de son vélo et plus aucun document. Il me réclama de la nourriture et de l’argent, je lui offris volontiers une de mes deux bananes et sans poursuivre la discussion je le saluais pour reprendre la route.

Son histoire me servait au moins de leçon.

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